Sierra Haute Route ~ Epic Backcountry Skiing

In late April of 2024 myself and four others finished a trip that has been on my bucket list since the 1970s – a crossing from east to west of the California Sierra Mountain Range on skis. First, let me first post some photos and a few links to aid other in navigation. Eventually I may add more captions.

This was my third attempt in doing a crossing in almost a decade. The first two were foiled by either partners that not quite ready, a lack of confidence on how much fuel we had, or unknown adverse medical conditions of a partner. My first attempt started on Kearsarge Pass, further north. Prior attempts were done later in the season, which seemed like a good idea because we would have longer days and warmer nights, but the river on the approach to Shepherds Pass was a torrent making the crossings difficult and slow. The last week of April or first week of May seems to be the sweet time for this route.

Here was our intended route: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/41943891 (on paper, the specs were 38 miles, with 11,443 feet of climbing).
Here is our actual route: https://www.strava.com/activities/11316666701

Our trip took five nights and six days total. We got a rather late start on the first day (10 or 11 a.m. as I recall) and as mentioned below lost some time on day two when squall rolled in.

Prior to the trip, I could not find a GPX file (or complete Strava upload) from any site that would provide navigation details. The only thing I had to work with was a low res topo map with a crude route line drawn. I spent many hours creating a new route from scratch using my preferred online software, which is Ride with GPS. I used both it’s USGS and other generic topo maps, alongside with satellite views, to create our route. We saw few other parties or ski tracks until the last two days, so we really had to rely on our own navigation skills. The biggest variation on the intended route compared to the actual one taken, was the last day, in Tablelands, where we followed other tracks. Our route was the Shepherds Pass route, which is most commonly done.

The fastest known time (FKT) for a crossing is 19 hours, the last time I checked.

On our second day as we gained snowline, right below Shepards Pass, a nasty storm rolled in, causing us to hunker down for the night, rather than attempt to ascend the pass. We lost perhaps a half a day due to that storm. But we knew it was coming, so it was calculated risk, but also knew the balance of the week looked stellar.

On our last day, I thought since the terrain looked less steep, that it would be super easy. But in the morning, we dropped in on a north-facing slope (following other ski tracks which were apparently made in the afternoon when conditions were soft) which proved to be totally iced over. Most of the team gently side stepped down, rather than try to ski it. I was more timid and put on my boot crampons and it booted it down, while they patiently waited.

Stove notes: we debated whether to go with cartridge stoves (aka JetBoil type) versus “old school” white gas liquid stoves. At first we were going to use the butane/propane cartridges because of their reported efficiency. But at the last minute, I called some of the companies that do guided trips on this route. All of them use liquid gas, so we followed suit, bringing a one each, MSR Whisperlite and Simmerlite stove. I believe the reason guides use liquid is because with larger groups (and more days “out” as is common with commercial groups) it requires an enormous amount of fuel to melt snow for water. That would require a crazy amount of cartridges which is very, very bulky. Liquid gas is very compact. We allocated about 4.5 oz. per day per person. If you are not making hot drinks or hot breakfasts, then 4 oz. would be enough. Despite using white gas, as it turned out, the night prior to our start, most members of our party were struggling in finding enough space in their 50-55L packs for group gear. We were able to use open streams for the first two nights, after which we had to melt snow. We had one pot with a built-in heat exchanger and one without.

The photos below are mine or those from Wayne Pullman. Other members of the party included Jim Knight (who was with me on our prior two attempts), Greg Paul and Martin Frey. Many thanks to Paul Curtis for his time in shuttling us from the east side back to the start. Wayne was the youngster of the group, so he broke trail much of the time. Jim was the oldest at age 71, I at 70, and rest were slightly younger. Consequently, our moving speed was not stellar, but adequate.

My planning notes showing each proposed day and the climbing specs.

Ptarmigan Traverse

This past July (the 18th–22nd, 2022), myself, my brother Karl Stum, his daughter Corrie Bahr and grandson Aaron Anderson (Natalie Anderson’s son) completed a mountaineering route in the north Cascades in Washington, called the Ptarmigan Traverse. It has been dubbed as “America’s Most Beautiful Mountaineering Route” by Outside Magazine. Our Strava-uploaded stats indicate we hiked or climbed some 45 miles and about 13,000 vertical feet. 

The normal Cascade Pass trailhead was closed, so we started out actual route, some 3 miles and 1500′ vertical down from it. We hustled up that section late Sunday night. It was raining so we opted to camp inside the restroom (it was rather clean!), rather than hassle with starting out the trip with soggy tents. The rain and mist continued into the following day for four or five hours before finally quitting. We had flawless weather the rest of the trip.

The first four days were absolutely fabulous with much of our route traveling off trail (much of the “trail” was covered by snow, esp. since the winter of ’21–22 had been a big snow year). Because of the many steep snow fields, I felt that technically, it was much more difficult than the standard route on Mount Rainier, though we didn’t have the crevasse dangers found on those higher peaks.

Our fifth, or last day involved hours and hours of bushwhacking on a “trail” that is officially closed; we felt like we were in a Brazilian jungle. Had I known that the last 10–12 miles would have been so difficult, I would not have attempted the route. It just wasn’t worth it. The problem is that there are simply no early bail out options, so one cannot just take a shorter route. The Outside article must have been published many years ago, before the trail was closed. It appears that the U.S. Forest Service has simply let that section of the trail “go to the dogs,” and not make any effort to maintain it.

Kyle, a prolific blogger, did this extended route, bypassing the miserable last day (but adds another ten miles). I have recreated his route using my online software. Email for the link if you are interested. 


Preferred route (with the option to create a GPX download if you wish): https://ridewithgps.com/routes/36542738

Our actual route: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/40377706

My Strava Uploads:

https://www.strava.com/activities/7534457343 (Days 1-5)

https://www.strava.com/activities/7534424667 (Last Day)


Unless noted, all photos are copyrighted Richard Stum, 2022. Please DO NOT duplicate w/o permission.


Day 1


Day 2


Day 3


Day 4


Day 5 — Final Day to the Car
On paper the last day was supposed to be only 12 miles, but my GPS showed 19, due to all the meandering (& perhaps combined with errant satellite signals from traveling in a heavily forested area).


Mount Rainer — Family Style

In late 2015 my brother Karl and I hatched a plan to do a “family” Rainer trip. We choose August (of 2016) because of the typically stable weather (which it was, we had only a light breeze on the top and had sunny weather throughout). We also selected the commonly-done Disappointment Clever route as it has a less vertical gain than other routes and typically has a boot track in place, increasing the probability of success.

We allowed three days on the mountain (an extra bad-weather day), but only used two. Our group of 12 included myself, Karl, Levi (son), Rosemary (daughter), Ryan, Mark, Todd (nephews), Jonny (Rose’s friend) and several other friends of Karl. It took us about 5.25 hours to go from the car to Camp Muir. We got a few hours of sleep (some of us anyway, my sleeping pad was flat, so I got none) and then headed out at  11:00 p.m. for the summit. We left in the middle of the night as the weather was very warm so we wanted to be down off the upper mountain before the snow warmed up too much, increasing the danger of someone dropping through a soft soft-bridge and into a crevasse. It took us eight hours to summit and then four hours to get back down to Muir — and then finally about three hours to return to the car. Total climbing was a little over 9,000 feet of elevation. Here is my Strava upload of this trip.

This was my fourth trip and fourth summit success on this mountain, all with my brother Karl.

Probably the most memorable family reunion I’ll ever participate in!

The approach on day one. What a beautiful mountain.
Early on day one.
Levi running up the mountain!
Snowfield just before Camp Muir,
With a group of 12 people we had three stores going constantly to melt snow for water, because there was no open water sources at Camp Muir.
Since we arrived on Thursday afternoon, the heart was basically employee so we had a pretty much to ourselves.
Crossing crevasses on ladders wearing crampons was always spooky.
Early on the summit day.
The boat track, which is very common on the so-called dogs route.
Sunrise on summit day, at about 13,000 feet.
On the summit with Rose and Levi.
Karl, Rose, Jonny and Levi. Descending off the mountain on a summit day.
More stunning views.
I could not find any traditional mountaineering boots that would work with my problem ankle, so I used running shoes (Altra Lone Peak Neo Shell) fitted with a cycling neoprene overboot. A very lightweight method that work good except for my toes got a little bit pinched due to the crampon and soft shoe.
Karl’s roped team approaching Camp Muir after a successful summit bid.
Are used lightweight aluminum crampons as they were the only kind that would fit over my running shoe combo.

Pfifferhorn Peak SkiMo — via a Different Route

In mid-March (2014), four of us made the ascent up to the top of Pfeifferhorn via slightly route different route than I normally do; that is up Maybird Gulch. This is an 11,000+ foot peak near Snowbird ski resort just east of Salt Lake City Utah. Here is my Strava upload. As I recall, it took us about 4.5 hours from the car to the top.

                

A New PR on Skis — 10,000′ of Uphill

Strava Data Screen Shot
Strava Data Screen Shot

In December there was a vertical challenge at Sundance Ski Resort. The objective was to do multiple uphill (& downhill) laps on skis until you get in 10,000 ft of vertical gain. I was unable to attend, but decided to do it on my own at Brighton on Feb. 19th, 2015.

I removed the tongues and two additional buckles of from my La Sportiva Spectre boots to save weight. I took my lightest skis which are the carbon fiber G3 101 Synapse (101 mm wide x 180 cm long). I started out at 7:40 a.m. doing laps on the far east side of the resort going up near the Great Western lift (~ 1800 ft). The lifts open at 9:00 so I got a lap and half in before I started getting downhill traffic. Eventually, the ski patrol requested I relocate my efforts to the Wren Hollow run, which I did for the balance of the day. Several times through my workout I stopped at my car or the lodge to resupply food stuffs and fluids. I was only carrying a single 750 ml water bottle and a narrow waist belt. I opted to go without a backpack to save weight.

I ended up doing eight uphill climbs until I hit my goal and then finally skied back to my car for the last time. For the downhill, I specifically stayed on groomed runs so as to not wear out my quads. They actually felt a lot better than most ski races despite doing much more climbing. But, most ski races go down more technical terrain that I did on this day, which takes it toll on my quads, especially for me, as I am such a crummy downhill skier.

My total time was 8:43 with an average speed of 3.2 MPH, topping out at 32 MPH (moving time was 8:02). For the climbs I tried to keep my heart “down” to about 80-85% of my max (in a race, I push it to 90-93%). Towards the end of this effort I was only pushing about 75% due to fatigue. In the future, if I do this again, it should would be nice to have some lighter race skis (65 mm wide x 160 cm long) instead, esp. since I stayed all on easy groomed slopes.

This is the link to my GPS/Strava upload.

Provo Peak SkiMo

In March, four us (Jim Knight [+ his hound dog], Mat Gover, Joey Dempster & myself) did a hike/ski ascent of Provo Peak, just east of Provo (11,044 ft). I attempted this peak some 10 years ago, but due to inadequate equipment, I could not summit. On that attempt, also with Jim Knight, I didn’t have boot or ski crampons. The summit ridge was very windblown with a firm crust. My boots gave me no purchase. Jim went to the summit without me.

This year was different. I brought both boot and ski crampons (neither of which I used). We had 6 to 8 inches of fresh snow the prior night. We started up Rock Canyon on foot and proceeded to carry our skis for a few miles before there was enough snow to ski. Later we approached the peak from a N.W. ridge, which at times was difficult for me in the new powder, as my old Scarpa Laser boots didn’t provide the flex necessary in parts and I slipped backwards at times. We finally gained the main west ridge and uphill travel was easier. The descent down was very nice, with new snow over a firm base.

2014 SkiMo or Rando-Racing

This winter, after a two-year hiatus, I decided instead of doing a lot of indoor lap swimming that I would return to doing rando skiing or skimo (ski mountaineering). I participated in the two local races in February and March. I entered the regular “recreation” division, as opposed to the “elite” division. They are both ISMF-sanctioned (International Ski Mountaineering Federation).

The CROWBAR is held east of Logan. This year it appeared more people entered the elite division than the rec. It is not age-bracketed and I placed 8th out of 13th with a time of 2:15. Due to the very warm weather, the course was modified and had just under 3,000 vertical of climbing. Here’s my Strava link.

The Wasatch Powderkeg is the biggest SkiMo race in North America and is held in and out of bounds at Brighton Ski Resort in Utah. I finished 30 out of 38 (ouch!), with a time of 2:57. Here’s my Strava link for that one.

I am currently using pre-historic gear that is heavy or not race worthy. By next season, I should have more upgrades (i.e. lighter gear).

Rando Ski to the Skyline Drive

Today I went up with J.K. and skied from about the elevation of my house up to the Skyline Drive. We had bluebird weather, little wind and a short section (700 vert?) on the way down with some decent powder. We climbed some 3,800 feet and descended in about 4-1/2 hours. Because of the continuing high pressure system off in the Pacific, we had little wind, and then the snow was pretty thin in spots too.

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New meaning to “Share the road!”

Today I started off my the Rando ski season with a short workout on a forest service road, near my home. At the car I was met by snowmobilers going up, just as I was ready to go up as well, giving new meaning to the term “share the road.”

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Avalanche Forecasting

For many years, I have done my share of backcountry skiing. The thing that always concerns me while traveling near or above timberline is the constant threat of avalanches. I am a novice at forecasting avalanaches, yet, recently, an expert avalanche forecaster was tragically killed in a slide near Big Cottonwood Canyon, which is east of Salt Lake City. The victim was Craig Patterson, a forecaster for the Utah Department of Transportation Snow and Avalanche Program, which forecasts and controls avalanches for both Big Cottonwood Canyon and Little Cottonwood Canyon. Craig was doing fieldwork alone on Kessler Peak to check out the snow stability conditions, because avalanche slopes on Kessler Peak can threaten the highway below. My condolences to his family for their loss.